Manila Girl's Guide To Singapore
Beyond Marina Bay Sands
This newsletter may appear clipped in your email. To read in full, please click "View entire message".
Yes, I know this is about a different city. But when friends ask me to recommend places to visit in Singapore, I have to type out everything one by one, so I decided to just create this guide. If you’re looking for the usual first-timer must sees and how-tos for Singapore, this guide is not it. There are a lot more detailed ones on the internet for that. This guide is guide is written for people who have time to spare beyond the main attractions.
I’m going to go about this guide per area, a.k.a. how I decided to lump them together. I’m the type to walk a lot when exploring a city, so every recommendation in each area is within walking distance of each other. So, let’s go lah!
Funan Area
A short walk from the City Hall MRT is the National Gallery Singapore. People often opt to visit the Art Science Museum, which I understand because because of its interactive and insta-worthy displays, but National Gallery Singapore is definitely worth a visit too.
I was able to join a free English tour thanks to one of the helpful volunteers that referred me. On the tour, I learned that the museum building used to be two separate buildings, formerly the Supreme Court and City Hall first linked in 2014. Our guide shares that a time capsule is buried underneath the Supreme Court’s foundation stone during British rule. It is said to contain newspapers dated 31 March 1937 and currency from the Straits Settlements. I’m so curious of what else is inside. Unfortunately for me, the reveal is still in the year 3000. But who knows, yeah?
My personal favorite was the South East Asia gallery which featured works from artists in the SEA region dating back to the 19th Century. I was pleasantly surprised to chance upon Juan Luna’s España y Filipinas paintings. Though I don’t agree with its message of our colonizers leading the Philippines into a brighter future, it was moving to see paintings I only saw in my textbooks during grade school.
Through that exhibit I also got to discover other brilliant works by other SEA artists. Raden Saleh’s Forest Fire commanded my attention the moment I stepped in the gallery. The warm glow of fire. Thick dark suffocating smoke. The sheer horror and panic in the animals’ faces and movement. Though it is a painting of impending doom, it was such a pleasure to admire, simply because every corner of the frame told a story.
After exploring the numerous exhibits, do not miss going to the rooftop of National Gallery Singapore. You can get a view of the Singapore skyline with iconic landmarks such as Marina Bay Sands and Esplanade (the Durian-inspired theater).
Within the same area is St. Andrew’s Cathedral and Funan mall. St. Andrew’s Cathedral is right across the museum. I admired it’s Gothic architecture from outside, but didn’t get to see it up close. Based on the pictures and reviews online, it’s worth a short visit to see the garden and stained glass windows inside.
Funan Mall is a good place to stop by because of its numerous activities, shops, and restaurants. Climb Central’s walls captured my attention the moment I entered Funan, acting as its centerpiece standing right in the middle of the mall. Climbing it was so exciting because I could see the scale of the height I’m climbing as the floor levels follow me the higher I go. If climbing is not your thing, Funan has an indoor cycling track, swimming pool, and futsal pitches, among others.
Less than a 10-minute walk away is the Old Hill Street Police Station. It’s known as a photo spot because of its bright, colorful facade. From there, it’s a short walk to Clarke Quay where you can dine by the river. You can find everything from steak to hot pot to king crab—you name it, it’s probably there.
📌 TRY THIS ROUTE
⏱ Estimated time walking between locations: 12 MINSChinatown
First things first, when you’re leaving the MRT, take Exit A. My first time in Chinatown, I made the mistake of exiting elsewhere and had to take a long walk to Pagoda Street where the usual touristy stuff are. Pagoda street is busy with souvenir and delicacy shops, street vendors, restaurants, and bars. Bugis is probably still the cheaper place to buy souvenirs, but Pagoda Street has specialty stores that sell unique designs that are more special than the mass produced ones in Bugis.
Just a short walk from Pagoda Street is Singapore’s oldest Hindu temple, Sri Mariamman Temple. It’s quite hard to miss, since you can see the elaborate carvings of deities from afar. If you plan to enter the temple, please note that appropriate attire is required. As a rule of thumb, make sure your back, shoulders, and legs are covered.
Nearby is the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple. It gets its name from the relic it houses which Buddhists believe to be Buddha's left canine tooth. Upon entering the main hall from the ground floor, you will be greeted by the majestic The Hundred Dragons Hall. Ornate decor found in Buddhist temples of the Tang Dynasty surround the 15-feet tall Buddha Maitreya statue. This area is quite busy, filled with devotees and tourists alike. Like Sri Mariamman Temple, make sure you’re dressed appropriately before entering.
Apart from the Buddha tooth relic, the temple houses many more Buddhist artifacts and figurines inside. It was my first time seeing so many in one place. The collection of artifacts and figurines come from across Asia, so it was interesting to see the difference in expression of their images of Buddha and the materials used to create the sculptures; wood, bronze, gold, and more.
On the rooftop is a beautiful open orchid garden. When a breeze passes through, the wind chimes sing a calming melody. In the center of the rooftop is a pagoda home to the large Vairocana Buddha Prayer Wheel. According to Tibetan Buddhism, each rotation of a prayer wheel is considered equivalent to reading a sacred text or chanting a mantra.
After exploring the temple, you can check out the Lian Xin Vegetarian Food Court at the basement. They serve a plethora of vegetarian dishes, with menus that change every day. If vegetarian food is not for you, the popular Maxwell Food Centre is just across the road. You’ll find Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice which is included in the Michelin Guide, so expect a queue! Nanyang Old Coffee is also just nearby. They serve the usual Singaporean staples like kopi and kaya toast along with rice meals like Black Herbal Bak Kut Teh, Traditional Curry Chicken Thigh, Rendang Curry Chicken, and more. Go up the 2nd floor and check out their Coffee Museum for free.
If you’re up for more sightseeing, explore Telok Ayer nearby. It’s a charming stretch of cafes, bars, and shops that are in Art Deco Shophouses. One of the establishments that integrated the original exterior and design of its original tenant is My Awesome Cafe. It now occupies what was the Chung Hwa Free Clinic which used to treat patients and offer medicine and herbs for free. “Chung Hwa Free Clinic” is still on the cafe’s entrance and they even serve traditional Chinese medicine wine.
Along the stretch is Thian Hock Keng, this temple is dedicated to Mazu, a Chinese sea goddess. Its history dates back to 1839. I eventually learned that the temple was originally built oceanfront, which made more sense given its dedication to a sea goddess. However, it now sits inland due to land reclamation. It’s a smaller and less crowded temple compared to the previous ones mentioned, but I think it’s where its charm lies. The lack of busyness allowed me to admire the detailed carvings of deities, the bright red lanterns swaying in the wind, the ornate curved roofs protected by dragons, the tiled courtyard leading to the shrine. It’s such a special sacred place for its devotees, I felt grateful that they allow outsiders like me to marvel at its beauty. Here’s a glimpse.
You may choose to cap off your Chinatown adventure at Telok Ayer since there is a lot of food and drink options nearby. But if you have energy left, just a 5 minute walk away is the iconic hawker center, Lau Pa Sat. Visit from 7 PM on weekdays or from 3 PM on weekends for Satay Street, they block off the nearby Boon Tat Street where you can buy freshly grilled satay and dine under the city lights. The grilled prawns are a must-try!
📌 TRY THIS ROUTE
⏱ Estimated time walking between locations: 22 MINSTiong Bahru Area
If you are the type to take leisurely strolls, read books in a quaint cafe, and spending your day slowly, Tiong Bahru is the place to be. It’s an actual neighborhood people live in, interspersed with cafes, restaurants, and quirky shops. You’ll notice that the apartment buildings are unique in comparison to the HDBs that are more common in Singapore today. The Tiong Bahru housing was built between 1936 and 1941 inspired by the Streamline Moderne style characterized by its clean, curved shapes, and rounded corners.
One of the shops I keep coming back to is Cat Socrates, a whimsical place filled with cute bits and bobs you probably don’t need. They have the cutest most colorful items to bring home. I’m told there is an actual cat that resides there, but I have sadly never seen it in person no matter how many times I come back. Along the same street is Woods In The Books, which carries children’s book, illustrated books, comics, and the like.
After I’ve fulfilled my (window) shopping needs, I like spending time at one of the many cafes in Tiong Bahru. One of my go-tos is a small charming cafe called Micro Bakery. They carry the usual cafe menu of coffee, pastries, and sandwiches (on sourdough bread) where you can’t really go wrong. They bake their pastries in small batches in store so you won’t be getting stale bread here. It’s quite popular but don’t be discouraged by the crowds upon entering the store, there is more seating at the back. I once came while it was raining. The droplets falling on the skylight while I was reading a Mieko Kawakami book was just perfection. Another option is of course Tiong Bahru Bakery. Though it has many branches across Singapore, the Tiong Bahru branch is its original location. You won’t regret pairing their flaky kouign-amann with a flat white.
My last recommendation is technically not within the same area or walking distance from Tiong Bahru, but I think The Mill is worth the short bus ride. It’s a black gothic building towering over the modern buildings in Redhill. I spent a good 10 minutes just marveling at the architecture from across the street before entering.
As you walk towards the ornate entrance, the dark murals on the walls welcome, or rather intimidate, you. The center is open so when you look up, the building’s black walls frame the sky. It rained the first time I visited. The building’s architecture combined with the heavy rain made me feel like I’m somewhere in Gotham. My main agenda was a branch of the third wave coffee shop Alchemist. It’s cold gray modern interior blends well with the dark vibe of The Mill. Frankly, their coffee is more expensive compared to most cafes in Singapore, but it’s delicious and definitely good quality. You can even buy their beans in-store if you’d like to brew at home. Across Alchemist is Nonage Gallery which you may visit for free. It’s a good place to view, or even buy, works from emerging artists.
📌 TRY THIS ROUTE
📌 The Mill (check bus available on the day)
⏱ Estimated time walking between locations: 20 MINSConey Island
Nobody goes to Singapore for the nature, but if you start to become desperate for it during your stay, go to Coney Island. I started my walk from Oasis Terraces via the Punggol Promenade Nature Walk. It’s quite straightforward and the path is well paved and shaded. You’ll find people running and cycling but you’ll mostly find yourself alone. At the end of path, Coney Island is in view.
Once you’ve crossed the bridge to the island you’ll be greeted by the forest. Tall trees. Chirping sounds. Cool air. The path is well established and its quite easy to run or cycle in the island. The edge of the island is obstructed by either mangroves, trees, or rocks, but there are patches of openings, which lead to the beach. Near the entrance, I found an opening that led to the stairs going down the water. Across me was Malaysia, a short kayak away, if only I had one and if it were allowed.
There is not much to see, but I visited Coney Island after almost 2 weeks in Singapore so it was so nice to be in nature after only being surrounded by malls and HDBs. I spent some time admiring a small clear stream. Waving from the beach to a speedboat with soldiers, one of them seeing me and waving back. Eating my packed peanut butter sandwich and apple in a shed. The peace found alone, surrounded by trees and chirping birds, was a welcome respite from the fast paced city.
📌 TRY THIS ROUTE
⏱ Estimated time walking between locations: 28 MINSChangi Airport
Changi Airport is one of the best airports in the world, come a few hours early and treat it as one last stop before going home. Most people marvel at the Vortex in Jewel from the 2nd level, but I suggest going up the top level for a better view. There are much less people and you’ll find a quieter atmosphere. I've been seeing attractions popping up on Instagram like the Wonderfall, a massive digital waterfall, and Dreamscape, a digital sky hanging above an indoor garden which I look forward to seeing the next time I visit.
While waiting for my flight, I enjoy snacking around Jewel. Sourbombe Artisanal Bakery on Level 2 has crave-worthy donuts that I just simply cannot find an alternative for in Manila. I won’t forget my first time biting into their raspberry pistachio donut, the sugary filling oozing into my mouth. At the basement, you’ll find a foodcourt with a view of the Vortex from below. There, I got a classic milk tea with pearls from The Alley. It is the right amount of creaminess and sweetness without overpowering the taste of tea. Inside the terminal, grab yourself Garett Popcorn to bring home. Their Chicago Mix flavor is the perfect combination of sweet and salty.
I never really understood why some friends kept coming back to Singapore even though they’ve been there before until I visited for the first time. Maybe it was the efficiency of it all. Though it’s a bustling city, it’s free from inconvenience and grime. Everything was easy from entering immigration to navigating transportation. It’s an existing future I could only dream of for Manila.
Perhaps I was impressed by how people from different cultures and faiths co-exist. Learning to get used to return my trays between halal and non-halal at the hawkers, walking by a mosque, a temple, and a church within the same street, hearing multiple languages on the train daily slowly built my admiration.
I don’t know the main reason, but I started to become one of those people that came back and plan to keep coming back. I made this guide with places my friends and I love in mind. I hope you have the best time at the Lion City too.
This whole thing was *chef's kiss*